All posts by Seán Silke

James Joyce Tower

The James Joyce Tower on Sandycove Point is one of a series of fifteen similar Martello towers built around Dublin in 1804 to counter the threat of an invasion by Napoleon. The design was based on that of a tower on Cape Mortella in Corsica which had resisted a British attack in 1794.

The Tower is about forty feet high with walls eight feet thick. There was a single entrance ten feet above the ground which could only be approached by ladder. On top of the tower was a gun deck with a carriage on a swivel. Its eighteen pounder cannon had a range of about a mile.

In 1904 the tower was demilitarised and put up for rent at £8 a year by the War Department. The first tenant was Oliver St John Gogarty, a medical student and budding poet, who moved in in August and invited the twenty-two-year-old James Joyce to join him. Joyce was slow to take up the invitation and did not arrive at the tower until 9 September, by which time their friendship had cooled. They were joined by Samuel Chenevix Trench, an Oxford friend of Gogarty’s.

Joyce’s stay was brief. He was chased out of the tower on the night of 14 September and never returned. A month later he left Ireland for a literary career in Europe. The first chapter of his famous novel “Ulysses”, published in 1922, was set in the tower with characters based on himself and his companions. As a result, the tower became his monument, despite the fact that Gogarty had been the tenant and that it had been visited over the years by many celebrated Irish personalities.

The tower was bought in 1954 by the architect Michael Scott. With the help of a gift of money from the filmmaker John Huston, he and his friends set up the James Joyce Museum which was opened on 16 June 1962 by Sylvia Beach, the first publisher of Ulysses. Over the years the museum collection has grown, thanks to the generosity of many donors. In 1978, an exhibition hall was added to the building and a new entrance was put in at ground level.

At one stage, it seemed that the James Joyce Tower and Museum would cease to exist, as the resources necessary to keep it open were no longer available. Thankfully, the people of Sandycove and Glasthule were not prepared to let such a catastrophe occur. An organisation of volunteers, the ‘Friends of Joyce Tower Society’, was formed with the objective of keeping the tower and its museum open. With the support of Fáilte Ireland (the tower’s current custodian), the Society now operates the tower.

Opening Hours:
Open Tues to Sun: 10am – 4pm

Contact & Pricing:
joycetower.ie
info@joycetower.ie
Tel: 01 280 9265
James Joyce Museum, Sandycove Point, Sandycove, Co. Dublin.
Admission free; donations welcome

Jeanie Johnston

Jeanie Johnston Famine Ship Museum

The Jeanie Johnston Famine Ship Museum is a replica of a wooden tall ship which sailed between Tralee & North America between 1848 and 1855.

The original Jeanie Johnston was built in 1847 on the banks of the St. Lawrence River in Quebec City, Canada. The cargo ship was purchased in Liverpool by John Donovan and Sons of Tralee, Co. Kerry. As the famine gripped Ireland, the company ran a successful trade bringing emigrants from Ireland to North America and returning with timbers bound for the ports of Europe.

The Jeanie Johnston made her maiden voyage on 24th April 1848 from Blennerville, Co. Kerry to Quebec with 193 passengers on board. Over the next seven years the ship made 16 voyages to North America carrying over 2,500 emigrants safely to the New World. Despite the seven week journey in very cramped and difficult conditions, no life was ever lost on board the ship – a remarkable achievement.

Opening Hours:
Open 7 days; guided tours only.
Tours every 30 mins from 10am – 4.30 pm.

Contact & Pricing:
jeaniejohnston.ie
reservations@jeaniejohnston.ie
Tel: 01 473 0111
Custom House Quay, Dublin 1
Adults €14; concessions

Kilmainham Gaol

Kilmainham Gaol

Kilmainham Gaol is one of the largest unoccupied gaols in Europe and its history is relevant to some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation from the 1780’s to the 1920’s. Attractions at this splendidly atmospheric site include a major exhibition detailing the political and penal history of the prison and its restoration. The tour of the prison (which is outstanding) includes an audio-visual show.

When the Gaol was first built, public hangings took place at the front of the Gaol. There was no segregation of prisoners; men, women and children were incarcerated up to five in each cell, with only a single candle for light and heat, most of their time being spent in the cold and the dark. The cells were roughly 28 square meters in size.

Children were sometimes arrested for petty theft, the youngest said to be a seven year-old child, while many of the adult prisoners were transported to Australia. Remarkably, for an age that prided itself on a protective attitude for the ‘weaker sex’, the conditions for women prisoners were worse than for men. An official 1809 report  observed that male prisoners were supplied with iron bedsteads while females ‘lay on straw on the flags in the cells and common halls.’ Half a century later there was little improvement.

Between 1796 and 1924, Kilmainham Gaol was a place where, apart from Daniel O’Connell and Michael Collins, every significant Irish nationalist leader of both the constitutional and physical force traditions was incarcerated. Thus, its history as an institution is intimately linked with the story of the Irish nationalism.

The majority of the Irish leaders in the rebellions of 1798, 1803, 1848, 1867 and 1916 were imprisoned there. It also housed prisoners during the Irish War of Independence (1919–21) and many of the anti-treaty forces during the civil war period. Charles Stewart Parnell was imprisoned here, along with most of his parliamentary colleagues, when he signed the Kilmainham Treaty with William Gladstone.

Kilmainham Gaol was decommissioned as a prison by the Irish Free State government in 1924. Seen principally as a symbol of oppression, there was no interest in its preservation as a monument to the struggle for national independence. The jail’s potential function as a focus for national memory was complicated by the fact that the first four republican prisoners executed by the Free State government during the Irish Civil War were shot in the prison yard.

The site now houses a museum on the history of Irish nationalism and offers excellent guided tours of the building. An art gallery on the top floor exhibits paintings, sculptures and jewellery of prisoners incarcerated in prisons all over contemporary Ireland.

[Thanks to Wikipedia for the above information]

The main exhibition at Kilmainham Gaol Museum tells the story of the social and political history of the prison. Three main themes are explored on the different levels of the exhibition space: the social history of Kilmainham Gaol and Irish prisons in the 1800s, the history of Irish nationalism and republicanism, 1796-1924, and the restoration of Kilmainham Gaol in the 1960s.

The ground floor exhibition tells the story of Kilmainham from the perspective of the ordinary prisoner. A prison register for the Gaol shows the crimes for which men, women and children were imprisoned, ranging from violent assault to stealing apples from an orchard. Visitors can see the small wooden box used by convict John Sheahan to carry his possessions to Australia in 1842. A Victorian-era Gandolfi camera, used to capture prisoner ‘mugshots’, is also on display.

Rebellion, nationalism and the path to independence are the themes of the exhibition on the first floor, which deals with Irish political history from the 1798 rebellion up until the end of the Irish Civil War in 1924. Objects on display include Robert Emmet’s proclamation of a provisional government of Ireland in 1803, the last letter written by Charles Stewart Parnell and scapulars taken from the body of Michael Collins following his assassination in 1922.

The ‘Last Words’ section displays the last letters and personal belongings of the fourteen leaders of the Easter Rising executed at Kilmainham Gaol in May 1916. The final floor of the exhibition tells the extraordinary story of a group of volunteers who rescued Kilmainham Gaol from near ruin in the 1960s and restored it.

Opening Hours:
Open 7 days: 9.30am – 5.15pm.
Late opening until 5.45pm in July and August.
The Gaol is accessed by guided tour only with a maximum of 35 people per tour. During peak tourist seasons the venue is often fully booked, and cannot accommodate walk-ins. Pre-booking of tickets is essential to gain access at your chosen day and time.
Closed 24 – 27 December.

Contact & Pricing:
kilmainhamgaolmuseum.ie
kilmainhamgaol@opw.ie
Tel: 01 453 5984
Adults €8 (online price); concessions

Kings Inns

King’s Inns

The Honorable Society of King’s Inns is the oldest institution of legal education in Ireland. It was founded in 1541 during the reign of Henry VIII when the king granted the Society the lands and properties on which the Four Courts now stand but which were then occupied by a Dominican monastery. When the Four Courts were built in the 1790s, King’s Inns moved from Inn’s Quay to Constitution Hill; the eminent architect, James Gandon, who had earlier designed the Custom House and the Four Courts in Dublin, was commissioned in 1800 to design a new building for the Society on Henrietta Street. It was Gandon’s last public building in Dublin.

The Honorable Society of King’s Inns consists of benchers, barristers and students. The benchers include all the judges of the Supreme and High Courts and a number of elected barristers. King’s Inns is the headquarters of the Benchers and of the School of Law. The primary focus of the school is the training of barristers.

The School of Law is the oldest institution of professional legal education in Ireland. Its reputation is international with a long list of eminent graduates including former presidents of Ireland and of other countries, taoisigh (prime ministers), politicians and, of course, judges and barristers in practice throughout the English speaking world.

Up to 1800 the buildings at Inns Quay provided all that was needed for practice at the bar. There were chambers where barristers lived and worked, a hall for eating and drinking, a library for research, a chapel for prayer and gardens for recreation. Things changed somewhat with the move to Constitution Hill. Chambers and a chapel were to have been built but the plans were never executed. However, many of the 17th century traditions remain or are co-mingled with 21st century developments.

Opening Hours:
Guided tours are rarely available. Each October, as part of the “Open House” weekend, there is usually a tour of all the buildings.
See www.openhousedublin.com/ for full details.

Contact:
kingsinns.ie
info@kingsinns.ie
Tel:  01 874 4840
King’s Inns, Henrietta Street, Dublin 1

Leinster House

Leinster House is the seat of the two Houses of the Oireachtas (the National Parliament): Dáil Éireann (the House of Representatives) and Seanad Éireann (the Senate). It was built in 1747.

Further detailed information about Leinster House can be obtained on the following website links –

A history of the buildings

Conservation and Restoration

A history of the Irish Parliament

Art in Leinster House

Opening Hours:
Public and walk-up tours are not available at present.
Members of the public may visit on official business only.
Tours of Leinster House are currently limited to those sponsored by a TD or Senator. Contact your local TD or Senator to find out more.

Contact:
oireachtas.ie
info@oireachtas.ie
Tel: 01 618 3781
Kildare Street, Dublin 2

Entrance to Liberty Market

Liberty Market

“Boots. Lamps. Laughing Buddha figurines. Hair clippers. Prime Energy drinks. Tubes of Crest toothpaste. T-shirts with ethereal wolves. Cardigan buttons and balls of wool. Eighty-year-old Turkish salt bags. Hash pipes. Communion dresses. Argentinian football jerseys with Messi printed on the back. Opal rings, jade necklaces and a grotto made entirely of purses and handbags. The labyrinthine Liberty Market at the top of Meath Street promises ‘everything under one roof,’ according to the mural painted around its corner on Engine Alley.”

The Liberty Market is one of Dublin’s longest running markets, celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2023. The official website is thin on detail but an article in “Totally Dublin” (from which the above quotation is taken) gives an entertaining insight into the old style, pound shop atmosphere of the market.

totallydublin.ie/arts-culture/liberty-belle-liberty-market-celebrates-50-years/

Opening Hours:
Thursdays: 10am – 3.30pm
Fridays: 10am – 4pm
Saturdays: 10am – 5pm
Open on Sundays during the month of December.

Contact & Pricing:
libertymarket.ie
info@libertymarket.ie
Tel: 01 280 8683
Liberty Market, Meath Street, Dublin 8
No admission charge

Links of Interest

Links of Interest

Those with an enthusiasm for visiting historic houses and gardens will be interested in a list compiled by the Revenue Commissioners. The document lists properties which gain tax relief on money spent on repairs, restoration and maintenance. In return, such properties/gardens must open to the public for a limited number of days each year. The opening hours tend to be eccentric; hence, the need for a detailed listing! For full details, please consult www.revenue.ie

A more user-friendly website which covers many (but not all) historic houses with restricted opening hours is www.ihh.ie, the website of the Irish Historic Houses Association. Very full details, including opening hours, are provided for all those houses affiliated to the IHHA and you can search by county to identify historic houses within geographic areas of interest.

Open House Dublin is an annual weekend festival in early October featuring up to 100 noteworthy buildings, from the obvious to the overlooked. Representing a diversity of building types and uses, OHD offers visitors the chance to explore several buildings within a type or to spend the weekend moving around the city, taking in a host of attractions. Each venue offers a unique insight into Dublin’s architectural story. All OHD tours are free. See www.openhousedublin.com/ for full details.

“Bridges of Dublin” is a Dublin City Council project whereby a comprehensive digital archive of information has been developed about the bridges spanning the Liffey in Dublin county. www.bridgesofdublin.ie is a wonderful-looking website with a host of historical information, splendid photographs and neat features such as a set of photos showing the bridges and the city as they were in the past and how they are in the summer of 2013 (you click on the images and they fade from old to new – click on “Historical Dublin” and select the “Then and Now” option).

The Dublin Event Guide is a weekly e-mail newsletter which lists free cultural events in Dublin City and in the Greater Dublin area. Gigs, festivals, talks, lectures, and exhibitions are included. Written in blog-style by Joerg Steegmueller, the Event Guide is free and has more than 20,000 readers.  You can subscribe free of charge to the weekly email by signing up at www.dublineventguide.com.

Little Museum of Dublin

Little Museum of Dublin

The Little Museum of Dublin is full of items donated by ordinary Dubliners and in a relaxed format charts the cultural and social history of Dublin in the 20th Century.

“U2: Made in Dublin”  tells the story of Ireland’s most famous band and features fan-donated musical rarities, signed albums, some great photography, a Trabant car and a Gibson Explorer. Curated by fans of the band, alongside some of Ireland’s best photographers and artists, the exhibition is a tribute to U2’s achievements and a celebration of their roots in the local music scene of the 1970s.

The Editor’s Room is a small tribute to the famous Irish Times editor, R.M. Smylie, and to the much respected “newspaper of record”, the Irish Times. The room contains Smyllie’s desk, his portable typewriter, his desk lamp and many more bits and pieces from 150 years of newspaper history.

You Say You Love Me But You Don’t Even Know Me is an exhibition which re-introduces Northern Ireland to the people of Dublin. Featuring 35 artefacts from the collections of National Museums (Northern Ireland), the exhibition explores different perspectives of ‘Irishness’ without ignoring contested elements of our complex shared history.

The Golden Age of Dublin: James Malton’s Prints of Dublin  – In the 1790s a young English draughtsman decided to create a group portrait of Dublin. James Malton’s timing was impeccable, as the second city of the British Empire was then among the most splendid in Europe. But Dublin went into a long decline after the Act of Union in 1800.

Malton died at the age of 38, and it wasn’t until many years after his death that his aqua-tint plates were coloured. Today we owe the very idea of Georgian Dublin to this remarkable artist. His work is admired by millions of people every year, yet little is known about Malton himself. This exhibition explores the life of a man whose work has become, as the Irish Times noted recently, “ubiquitous to the point of invisibility.” It is also a miniature biography of Dublin at the height of its golden age.

Why not avail of the Green Mile Walking Tour of St Stephen’s Green? The tour tells the story of a square which has been at the centre of Irish history for hundreds of years. Every year 8.1 million people walk through the park; it has long served as a backdrop for public and private drama, as well as being the setting for many great love stories. The tour begins with a short presentation at the Museum. Participants then embark on a 60-minute walk in the company of an expert local guide.

Opening Hours:
Open 7 days:  9am – 5pm, last tour at 4pm
Entry to the museum is by guided tour only, and most tours sell out. To avoid disappointment, book your tickets in advance online. Museum tours start hourly, or every 30mins during peak periods. Museum Tour in French is available every morning at 10.30am.

The Green Mile Walking Tour is available daily at 2.30pm.

Occasional after-hours events or exclusive private tours may be available outside normal opening hours. Click here to see the full selection of events currently available.

Closed over the Christmas holiday period.

Contact & Pricing:
littlemuseum.ie
hello@littlemuseum.ie
Phone 01 661 1000
15 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2
Adults €13; concessions

Malahide Castle

Malahide Castle is one of Ireland’s oldest castles dating back to the 12th Century. Set on 260 acres, the castle has been home to the Talbot family for over 800 years. The guided tour allows one to get a feel for the history of the house, and to admire the period furniture and an extensive collection of Irish portrait paintings.

Malahide Castle was built by the Talbots, an English family holding the title Earls of Shrewsbury. Richard Talbot arrived in Ireland in 1174, and in 1185 he was granted the lands and harbour of Malahide by Henry II for his “war-like” services in the Anglo-Norman conquest of Ireland. With the exception of a short time during the Cromwellian period, the Talbot family resided in Malahide for the next eight centuries.

The Talbots are reputed to have been a diplomatic family, carefully manoeuvring between the authority of church and state. During the eight centuries between 1185 and the 1970s, their tenure at Malahide Castle was only broken for a brief interlude between 1649 and 1660 when their lands were seized by Cromwellian soldiers.

Although the Talbots had taken the Jacobite side, their land holdings were not confiscated after the Battle of the Boyne in 1690. Fourteen members of the Talbot family, who had breakfasted together on the morning of the battle in the Great Hall of Malahide Castle, died on the battlefield.

The Talbots left an extraordinary legacy in Malahide and beyond. Among the family members were noted statesmen, churchmen and scholars and one great member of the family, Sir John Talbot, was immortalized in Shakespeare’s play ‘Henry VI’. Thirty individual Talbots had their seat at Malahide, from the first Lord Richard Talbot to Lord Milo Talbot, the 7th Baron, who died in 1973.

In 1975, Rose Talbot sold the castle to the Irish State, partly to fund inheritance taxes. Many of the contents had been sold in advance, leading to considerable public controversy, but private and governmental parties were able to retrieve some. Rose died in Tasmania in 2009.

The ornamental gardens adjoining the castle cover an area of about 22 acres and were largely created by Lord Milo Talbot, an enthusiastic plant collector who brought specimens from around the world to create the gardens here. In all, there are in excess of 5000 different species and varieties of plants present.  

The extensive system of pedestrian paths throughout the estate are perfect for walking and exploring the picturesque tree-lined park.

Opening Hours:
Open 7 days: 9.30am – 5.30pm
Last guided tours at 4.30pm from Apr to Oct, or 3.30pm Nov to Mar.
Closed 24 – 26 Dec.

Contact & Pricing:
malahidecastleandgardens.ie
reservations@malahidecastleandgardens.ie
Malahide, Co. Dublin
Tel: 061 711 222
Adults €14.50; concessions

Mansion House

The Mansion House is the official residence of Dublin’s Lord Mayor. It was built as a townhouse (1705) for Joshua Dawson, the developer of Dawson Street and Nassau Street. It was sold to Dublin Corporation in 1715. It is the only mayoral residence in Ireland still used for its original purpose. It is also the oldest mayoral residence in Ireland and the UK (older than London by 15 years) and it is the oldest free-standing house in Dublin.

Opening Hours:
The house is not normally not open to the public.

Contact:
mansionhouse.ie
wikipedia.org
dublincity.ie
Dawson Street, Dublin 2